The learning approach is fun, using high energy and rewards such as food and play.  We do not use clickers.  We coach each handler on an individual basis to ensure that both you and your dog thoroughly understand each exercise.  We recognize that each dog and handler are unique and we tailor our training to meet those needs.  We offer obedience at all levels, from puppy classes to advanced competition levels.

Our Guarantee:  We will happily refund your tuition if you believe that your dog hasn't made progress or that you have not gained a better understanding of your dog and canine behavior in general. 

Price for Puppy/Beginner: $136.50 includes tax. There are 8 classes in a set, each class is about an hour long, and your set will be completed in 4 weeks.

Do you have a Problem/Aggressive Dog?

If you have a dog that is aggressive toward other dogs or toward people, you must first come and do a private consultation (see 'Dog Behavior Consulting on the first page), with Barry to fix those problems before attending the first class.  That way, your dog and you will be able to show up at the first class knowing how to handle any aggression issues that would have upset other dogs and other masters - and small children.

Class Location for days with miserable weather - check grey box at the top of the 'Obedience Training' page each class day.

226 Edson St - see map information for directions. You can click here for a Google Street View Image. (The Google image you see may come up as 378 Edson), but it's the huge warehouse in the back of the parking lot.  You go to the door on the left.  The driveway is opposite the "IRON MOUNTAIN" sign.  

NOW, if you've made it this far, you can check out 'Information for Attending Your First Obedience Class', where there's advice on equipment, feeding and other preparations you can make.

How to Register in a class - Registration will be at the first class of the set.. Please email us at sunshadows@shaw.ca to let us know that you are coming.

Visitors are welcome to drop in and watch any of our classes that are in session.  Just introduce yourself to the nearest instructor and they'll tell you which group level to watch so you can see what your dog would be doing when you join us.

A word about our  approach.  

1. We believe that dogs are not 'little hairy people', and though they have many similarities to us, the error of ascribing human thinking and motives to them, tends to result in dogs that are confused, stressed, worried, or aggressive and certainly out of balance.  That's because they are not capable of grasping what our motives are and they likely believe that we too are dogs.   Therefore, we have to think like dogs in order to understand what they're telling us with their behaviors.

2.  Whichever behavior your dog picks in any given moment is what he or she believes is the best choice - even if it is to bite the mail carrier. This means that dogs do not scheme or plan to 'get even' or act out of malice.  It is only we humans who label a canine behavior as being 'bad', and so when a dog chooses one of these so called, 'bad' behaviors, it is our job to make it clear that that particular behavior will not pay off in the manner the dog was hoping.  Here's an example.  Let's say your dog barks at a stranger and the stranger jumps backwards and retreats.  The dog's behavior achieved what it wanted; that is, to drive the source of stress away - so, this behavior will be repeated and grow more pronounced because it worked.  If, instead, the stranger acted unaffected and you - the master, gave the dog enough trouble to make him feel uncomfortable, the behavior would be quickly discarded because it wasn't working.  We generally see this behavioral discard within 3 more corrections - if the level of correction is right.

3. The level of correction is critical; too much and learning is interfered with, causing the dog to panic and go into survival mode; too little, and the dog will assume that you are a weak leader, not to be respected because you aren't able - or willing, to show that you're the leader.  Since every dog is as different as each of us are, the key is to know what the right level is, and that's where we specialize.

4. We do not use trouble when we are teaching new behaviors.  Trouble confuses the dog during learning. It is reserved for changing existing, dangerous behaviors the dog has learned all on its own, and which we need to remove. The second key is the timing of the master's change from troubling to rewarding the dog's choosing to stop the 'bad' behavior.  This too takes some coaching.

5. Our training is modelled after the experiences a dog would encounter if it were a pack member.  There is a leader and he/she is in charge of absolutely everything.  Our training is designed to put you in that role.  Once the dog understands that, it can relax, and dump all the leadership stress on your shoulders.  In doing that, you have created a happy dog who knows it has a strong and competant leader.  Packs with competant leaders survive.

6. There are dogs who never have to get into any trouble because they know exactly what you want, and do it without resistance.  There are dogs who love food and would do anything for it, no matter how full they are at the moment.  Both these types are easy to train and will make you look good.

6.  Between the master and the dog, the master is the one who will have the most difficulty making the changes that are needed.  The dog will change happily.

If you don't believe in showing your dog that there are fair and reasonable, consistent consequences for both 'good' and 'bad' behavior, our school is likely NOT the place for you, but if you want a happy, secure dog that does what it's told with speed and with joy, come join our next class.

A Word about the 'Nasty, Politically Incorrect' Prong Collar...

You will never be forced or pressured into using a prong collar.  The most we will do is suggest to you - IF we feel that it would make things clearer for your dog - that such a collar will help.  It's up to you whether or not you use one.  In cases where dogs are large and can pull you all over the place, or where they're too energetic or unfocused or stubborn, a prong collar can make a real difference, and make it immediately.

The collar actually is the clearest way to get a negative message down the leash to the dog, and you don't have to be very hard at all.  In fact, to get the same understanding, a sliding collar may have to be used in a very hard manner.  What the prong does is simulate the time in a puppy's life when its mother was saying, "That's it, no more milk for you guys.  Your baby teeth are 'way too sharp."  She weans them by giving them an appropriate bite in the head and neck area, and puppies understand that mode of correction for the rest of their lives, and re-recognize it when you give them the same correction years later.

Many pet stores do not sell prong collars because they don't agree with their use - I believe it's because those in charge have no idea whatsoever how to use them correctly.  Instead, they'll try to push a muzzle or a harness or a Haltie type rig on you which simply forces the dog's nose to behave.  In contrast, we want the dog to behave because IT makes the choice to do so - not because YOU are forcing it to.  A little pop from the prong collar just reminds your dog that the behavior it's starting to show will not be permitted, so the dog can make the choice.  One store that seems to be completely against their use is PetsMart, where, in spite of that, they sell the collars anyway! We have had at least 5 of our students tell us that the PetsMart staff have made them feel that they were an 'evil person' for even thinking of buying one!  Stores that understand their use and carry the collars are Critters, Early's, and PetLand.  If your store is left off the list, let us know and we'll add it here.

Because the prong collar is a powerful and clear behavior shaping tool, it's best to use one for the first time with advice and coaching from someone who knows how to employ it properly.